Häller

GPS: 58.429853,11.468697

Introduktion

Karaktär

Klassisk sprick och vägg-klättring. Häller och inbefattas av Bohusläns Klätterklubbs bultpolicy om att hållas bultfria i framtiden. På denna klippa finns tilläggsgraderingarna R och X.

R

står för "runout" och betyder att det finns risk för långa fall.

R/X

är ett mellanting mellan R och X och betyder att det finns risk för allvarliga skador även om man utnyttjat klippans säkringsmöjligheter.

X

betyder att det finns risk för extremt långa fall, där ett fall på fel ställe kan leda till döden.

Vägbeskrivning

Access

Viktig uppdatering Maj 2009

Allvarliga övertramp gentemot markägare, se

. Var extremt noga med att visa hänsyn mot markägare.

Parking is the main access issue at Häller. Please pay careful attention not to park so that your car gets in the way for the farmer to do his job. Park at the small designated parking lot next to his house and pay the 20 SEK fee. If the lot is full please park elsewhere - not on his courtyard or on the dirtroad leading up to the farm. There has been reports about nesting kestrels at Häller, mainly on the ledge above the first pitch of "Tor line" and the ledge above "Tratten". Act accordingly i.e. do not climb in the vicinity of these ledges in the springtime, March - June. Note that some sectors of the cliff might be entirely closed-down in the spring due to nesting birds. In general all the standard access issues apply to Häller - therefore keep a low profile. Know that we are climbing on someone else´s property and behave in accordance with this. If "you have-to-go" make sure to dig it down deep or wait until later.... Leave no trace! If the cliff looks crowded go somewhere else for a couple of hours - there is plenty to choose from!

Leder

Klart Svår-Väggen

Stora Väggen

Mallorolväggen

Canapé Väggen

In English

Description

One of Sweden's premiere trad-crags. Classic crack and face climbing on fine-grained granite of extraordinary quality. There are a few bolted routes but the local climbing club and the Scandinavian climbing communities wishes no new bolts at Häller. Please follow Bohusläns Klätterklubb's policy on staying bolt free in the future.

Directions

From E6 take road 162 towards Lysekil. Häller can be seen from the road a few kilometres after passing

Hallinden

. Follow signs towards

Bro kyrka

. Don't follow the old sign pointing to 'Häller', instead take

Vrångebäcksvägen

100 m further south. Drive a kilometre on Vrångeväcksvägen then drive up to the farm just beneath the cliff. Pay 20 SKR for parking. If the parkinglot is full, consider going somewhere else, or park down at the main road.

Please read the access notes above.

Season

March--November.

Nuts and Bolts

Most routes are well protected by a standard trad rack. If the grade is followed by a ”R”, the route is somewhat risky, if the grade is followed by an "X" a fall from the hard part of the route may very well be terminal. Some X-rated routes are protected by aid gear.

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