En led som tar slut alldeles för fort. Välbultat men vid tvekan tar krafterna lätt slut.

Är inte detta egentligen leden Spöksonaten? I alla fall den övre delen, dvs huvudparten av leden, torde vara identisk med Spöksonaten. Har svårt att föreställa mig var Spöksonaten går annars. Nån som vet?


2011-03-30. The answer to this question is rather simple. 
The route called Spöksonaten is never climbed. On the contrary, the route called Coop is climbed by many, and many times every season. All this simply  means that Spöksonaten, whatever and wherever it was, does not exist any longer. 
/Peter Y

So, tell me how does a route cease to exist? Isn't it more fair to say that Coop is an alternative start to Spöksonaten and the upper part of the latter has now been bolted? I take it you bolted "Snabbare än tiden" recently? If you would have made a direct start, would you have claimed the whole thing as a new route then?


2011-07-08 Actually, I have it in my todo list for this year. To make a direct start to the routes up there (also brush up the ledge and set up a belay station). But I never claim anything I rebolt. And yet, it's the fellow climbers who decide what to climb (and what not to climb). As it has happened with Megadans, for example, which has become no.1 route of 7c grade in Stockholm after a reconstruction nearly from a scratch;  it had only 3 bolts, no top-anchor, and no repetitions in 20+ years, which made it simply non-existing as a climbing route.
/Peter Y

(Modern) climbing standards for a (good) route is a possibily of a successful onsite climb, nor matter trad or sport. When Eva Selin and Anders Lundahl had placed 2 bolts + one nut in 20m, then worked it all out some 20 times on top rope, and then (one of them) made it once on lead, it would not make the whoile thing a (good) climbing route, not in my oppinion anyway. /PY